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Forced Induction Forum Sponsored by Active Autowerke
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:07 PM   #1
bAby norAA
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Supercharged 330 Clutch Ideas

After looking around on the forum for a while, it looks to be that the HPF stage 2 seems to be the most referred clutch on here. What about the stage 1 though? it says its good for up to 700hp.
I've also been looking into southbend clutch set ups as well.

Are there any other ideas for clutches that are a bit more on a budget build that will hold up well? I dont ever plan on making anything over 400hp, so anything up to that will be fine.
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Last edited by bAby norAA; 07-07-2012 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 07-07-2012, 04:18 PM   #2
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Old 07-07-2012, 05:46 PM   #3
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iirc the south bend is manufacturer for the hpf feramic.
Stage 1 would be plenty for a vf sc I think or u could go top shelf with the uuc twin organic
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:23 PM   #4
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is it just me or is that site extremely confusing
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iirc the south bend is manufacturer for the hpf feramic.
Stage 1 would be plenty for a vf sc I think or u could go top shelf with the uuc twin organic
so you are saying the southbend is the same as the hpf stage 1?
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:01 PM   #5
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Pretty sure. The difference in "stages" is clamp load
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:25 PM   #6
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what else should i be replacing with a clutch replacement? Throw out bearing? Rear main seal? flywheel? anything else?

Do these clutches come with flywheels? or do i need to look for one of those as well?
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:29 PM   #7
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They use the stock flywheel on the hpf cars. Are these clutches compatible with your transmission?
I dunno much bout m54s
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:53 PM   #8
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They use the stock flywheel on the hpf cars. Are these clutches compatible with your transmission?
I dunno much bout m54s
i was under the impression that they all matched up the same? I was actually kind of planning on using my stock flywheel (to save some money).
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:55 AM   #9
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No, the S54 is different. I don't think HPF has a non-M clutch kit?

Either way, the OEM clutch is fine for a stage I. It even held up with my stage II twinscrew. Clamping power is not an issue. The problem is you cannot resurface the flywheel and the self adjusting feature on the pressure plate can cause issues.

I think UUC offers a good flywheel/clutch solution. I would just stay with their stage I, performance organic disc. Their flywheel can be resurfaced or you can cheaply and easily replace the friction surface. But you have a 5sp...so many options for clutches. Non-M 6sp...not so much.

The weakness is the throw out bearing. It is likely that the bearing will fail before the OEM clutch.
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Old 07-08-2012, 08:43 AM   #10
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No, the S54 is different. I don't think HPF has a non-M clutch kit?

Either way, the OEM clutch is fine for a stage I. It even held up with my stage II twinscrew. Clamping power is not an issue. The problem is you cannot resurface the flywheel and the self adjusting feature on the pressure plate can cause issues.

I think UUC offers a good flywheel/clutch solution. I would just stay with their stage I, performance organic disc. Their flywheel can be resurfaced or you can cheaply and easily replace the friction surface. But you have a 5sp...so many options for clutches. Non-M 6sp...not so much.

The weakness is the throw out bearing. It is likely that the bearing will fail before the OEM clutch.
when replacing the throw out bearing should i go with another oem, or go with an aftermarket?
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Old 07-08-2012, 11:11 AM   #11
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OEM. Not aware of any aftermarket options. You'll notice the plastic on the OEM bearing. I just avoid sitting at red lights with the car in gear and the clutch disengaged. I leave it in neutral.
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Old 07-08-2012, 12:54 PM   #12
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OP, do you actually need a new clutch? What's prompting this replacement now?
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Old 07-08-2012, 01:11 PM   #13
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OP, do you actually need a new clutch? What's prompting this replacement now?
Clutch is slipping on hard shifts and hard take offs. Im placing bets on the new forced induction and a clutch with close to 100k miles on it for the reasoning
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Old 07-08-2012, 02:48 PM   #14
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Clutch is slipping on hard shifts and hard take offs. Im placing bets on the new forced induction and a clutch with close to 100k miles on it for the reasoning
Mine was almost toast at 90k. But don't write off a new OEM clutch...it will still work well.
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Old 07-08-2012, 04:42 PM   #15
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Mine was almost toast at 90k. But don't write off a new OEM clutch...it will still work well.
i plan on seeing how much power i can get out of this motor, so i might as well get something that can handle the boost over time.

The southbend stage 2 looks to be my best choice for the money right now.
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:24 PM   #16
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My clutch recipe is as follows:

- stock E46 M3 pressure plate (yes, with the stock self-adjusting mechanism)
- ClutchNet Level 2 Kevlar solid hub disc
- stock M54 throwout bearing
- stock M54 dual-mass flywheel

I use that setup on my Stage2 turbo 330 (putting out over 350+ hp and torque to the wheels) with zero issues or slipping. Nice, soft pedal with smooth driveability. Only 'negative' is a little chatter in reverse. Other than that, you'd think it was stock.
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:35 AM   #17
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Make sure you get a flywheel (oem) or a flywheel clutch combo.

I resurfaced my stock flywheel to save cash and found out the hard way that you do not resurface dual mass flywheels with over 80k miles.

had to pay twice to crack the transmission twice over and the resurfaced flywheel ended up eating up my new performance organic.
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:55 PM   #18
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Southbend Stage1 clutch is what I have in my 325ci with the TT stage1 kit. It feels smooth everytime. Just a little more pressure than stock to engage. Would definitely buy it again.
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Old 07-14-2012, 12:25 AM   #19
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Sachs Race Engineering (SRE) clutch and pressure plate combo here for my TT stage 1 kit on a non-M six speed ZHP. I'm also using the OEM throwout bearing and a Rogue Engineering stainless steel pivot pin. Still on the original slave cylinder and is holding up fine at 133K miles. Love my setup. Engages exactly like stock after break in and pedal feel is about twice as firm. You will quickly adapt to a firmer pedal. Only downside to my setup is the cost. I think I paid around $1300ish for the clutch/pressure plate plus add in the new OEM flywheel at $500, new trans seals while it's out (might as well), throwout bearing ($50), pivot pin ($20), misc other parts. Total came to about $2000 all told.
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