Front window regulator DIY

Thank you very much elbee for your DIY!!! I just saved myself at least $225 and got the satisfaction of doing a job well done (with a little help from all those who posted before me ). Just for those who are doing a rear window, there are some slight differences from the DIY but nothing major (Step 2 & 9 - skipped it since there isn't an airbag in the rear, Step 11 - skipped it since I did not have the object, Step 14 - Only found one bolt to loosen the window, Step 16 - Only found 3 bolts that needed to be removed to get regualtor out). Overall the job did take me about 3 hours because I did run into one issue. While reinstalling the window switch that goes in the door handle, I somehow bent the plug and loosen the wires. It took me some time to figure out the correct order of the cables & reassemble it. I got it working despite tha fact that the wires can now easily come out. I know that if I ever have to do the regualtor again (& it is bound to happen) I should really fix it right. Has this happened to anyone and could I just repalce the plug or would I have to replace the entire cable? I tried looking on RealOEM.com for either part but did not find it. Anyone know how easy this is to fix? I would hate to have saved all this money to have to give it to someone to now fix this other problem.

This should be the same for coupes either sedans, doesn it?


I have this problem on my 330Ci

but?.. what should be the part number (of window regulator) in this case?



This is for SEDANS

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...25&hg=51&fg=10

And in my case...

330Ci Euro model

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...84&hg=51&fg=10


I saw a little difference between the mechanisims, thats why i have this doubt?

the DIY also apply for coupes?

thanx every body!

I opened up my drivers side panel last week to "fix" my window problem but stopped short of removing the motor and regulator because I was not sure what I was checking for. Now I know what to do. Thanks elbee!!!

I followed all of the steps to repair the regulator, sure enough, I had the
same exact problem that the steps described. After getting the regulator back in and testing the window out. The window is not going all the way up. There is still a 2-3 inch gap and it will not go up any more. Does anyone have any other ideas as to why the window will not go up all the way? It seems that when the window is now in the down position, when it starts going up, the window does not go up for a second or two. It seems that the window motor thinks the window is all the way up when it is not. Is there some adjustment that I may have missed? The window is moving smoothly now, except for not closing all the way.

Appreciate any ideas before I go the dealarship and drop the $$ to get it woriking all the way.

Thanks

Mike

many many many thanks to you two for a great and useful 'diy'..me---2001 330i. i offer a comment or 2 that i hope help and not confuse. first, the 'hair dryer' trick works equally well to get the vapor barrier off as it does to replace it---great tip!!! and if you only remove the barrier, starting from bottom to top, about 75%, you don't need to take it completely out. the air bag is not too fragile---just hang it--and don't hit it too hard.
but the one help i hope: i had a tough time trying to figure out what specific part the failure would occur and that the zip ties would solve---until i removed the old reg--it is the 2 'slides' where the window and regulator meet--the two unpainted pieces that move up and down the arms. hope this helps other like me dunces. definite 'diy' that will save $$ cause you will do 1, 2 or 4 sometime--or trade every 2 years. is the 'weak' bmw electrical system intentional? me suspicious. this is my first bmw in 30 years---my first, a 525, is still a treasured memory--but not sure the current models are have advanced that much.

MY front window just moves very slow at a certain point and then gets stuck and I have to push up with hand and apply power window button at the same time. Is this a regulator problem or something else....Its on a 2001 325xi. Thanks, MIKE

Elbee,
Thanks for your excellent post with pictures. i carried out your tie-wrap modification at the week-end with your help also made a difficult job easier, and saved a few hundred pounds. i'm scottish by the way (aberdeen)

regards
eric

Hi there...had a similar problem only that when I opened up the door panal, I found the cable on the window motor is completely wrecked! Can this cable be replaced or would I need a new motor unit??

Thanx...

Originally Posted by mikel325xi

MY front window just moves very slow at a certain point and then gets stuck and I have to push up with hand and apply power window button at the same time. Is this a regulator problem or something else....Its on a 2001 325xi. Thanks, MIKE

Thats wat mine did before cable on window motor snapped!

I don't think you need a new motor, just a new regulator. The cable is part of the regulator.

Originally Posted by GPgold

Hi there...had a similar problem only that when I opened up the door panal, I found the cable on the window motor is completely wrecked! Can this cable be replaced or would I need a new motor unit??

Thanx...

i have a 2001 330CI--

I have removed the window regulator. My driver window was working and just stopped without any sound. I would have to wiggle the window button just right to get it to operate, then it suddenly stopped in the "closed" position.

1. Is there any way to test the window regulator to see if its getting the proper juice and how to do this(the fuse looks fine)?

2. Can you see the location where the zip ties go by using a mirror to look inside the door itself or do you have to take completely out? I looked at my pullies and all the cable seems to be fine.

3. does the coupe have a different way to loosen the window off its track?

Now my driver side which I have not looked at yet did the grinding crunch sound...but i wanted to complete driver window first.

4. So if we figure it out to be the motor or regulator, can i disconnect the airbag so I can close the door without hooking everything back up until I get the replacement part or will this damage anything? I understand it will give me a fault code.

(there are a few differences with the coupe disassembly that I will update once I get this fixed)

Thanks

Originally Posted by love2drive330CI

i have a 2001 330CI--

I have removed the window regulator. My driver window was working and just stopped without any sound. I would have to wiggle the window button just right to get it to operate, then it suddenly stopped in the "closed" position.

1. Is there any way to test the window regulator to see if its getting the proper juice and how to do this(the fuse looks fine)?

2. Can you see the location where the zip ties go by using a mirror to look inside the door itself or do you have to take completely out? I looked at my pullies and all the cable seems to be fine.

3. does the coupe have a different way to loosen the window off its track?

Now my driver side which I have not looked at yet did the grinding crunch sound...but i wanted to complete driver window first.

4. So if we figure it out to be the motor or regulator, can i disconnect the airbag so I can close the door without hooking everything back up until I get the replacement part or will this damage anything? I understand it will give me a fault code.

(there are a few differences with the coupe disassembly that I will update once I get this fixed)

Thanks

Hi there,
I have never worked on a coupe window before, so I don't know how much help I can be. But, after spending a lot of time here, when people mention that the window stopped working, I have yet to hear that it is a motor problem. So far, all the problems I have heard of relate to the window regulator. I am not saying that a motor will never go bad, but I haven't heard of it yet - which leads me to believe that the motors are pretty solid. But, to answer your first question, I don't know if there is a way to test the juice going to the motor. I am sure someone with an electrical engineering background can be more of a help on this question.

I am pretty sure you will not be able to see where the zip ties go without taking out the regulator. I don't think a mirror will help.

Don't disconnect your airbag! From what I have heard there is a special tool that you will need to use to turn off the light. I heard that it is a $100 trip to the stealership. Apparently a regular OBDII tool will not turn off this light. I have driven a short distance with my door taken apart and the airbag bolted to its spot without a problem.

I have a 2001 E46 I will be glad to get suggestion on how to reduce the road resonance level. The car is too noisy to enjoy the music. Compared to the Toyota Camry this BMW is no good when it comes to interior noise levels.

You should be able to unplug the motor and use a voltmeter to see if a voltage is applied across the pins in the plug when you press the window switch. Another thing to try is wait until it's dark out and try to use the power window. Watch the interior light. If you press the switch and the window stays put but the light dims...then that means you are in fact putting a voltage on the motor and it's resulting in a voltage dip. That likely means your motor is trying to turn the regulator, but the regulator won't move. If you keep trying to do this, it'll overheat the motor. However, there is a built in permissive that prevents you from trying to run the motor too many times without time to cool in-between.

I would agree it is likely not the motor. My regulator went out at about 60k miles (crunching noises). I first swapped the motors between the passenger and driver side, but the problemed stayed in the same door...meaning it wasn't the motor. DON'T DISCONNECT THE AIR BAG. I did this per the service manual and ended up with an airbag light on. The dealer said I somehow ruined both airbags and I ended up having to spend over $1200 for two new airbags and a control module. NONE of the airbags work when the light is lit. If i had the time and patience I would have gotten a second opinion...my gut feeling is they ripped me off.

If you do decide you have to disconnect the airbag...ALWAYS make sure the key is not in the ignition switch while you do it.

From your first statements, though, it may just be a problem with your switch since you have to "wiggle" the button just right to make it work.

I hope that helps!

I did the regulator fix, and the window worked fine again, but there was still grinding. I thought nothing of it, since the window was going up and down perfect. 1 week later the $hit hit the fan. The window was getting stuck, and looked like it was about to shatter. I took out and apart the regulator. So let me share with you my findings.

The zip ties hold the window in place, making it open/close smoothly. If you find you are able to move the window a little up/down by hand, then the zip tie trick should work...

BUT, if you hear GRINDING, or the window motor stops too soon, before the window is able to close, then you need a NEW REGULATOR. I tried fixing mine, but it is vertually imposible.

The grinding is caused by a few strings of the cable ripping, and grinding through the gears of the window motor.

P.S. - if you have difficulties loosining the bolts holding the window, like I did. Try the 8mm ranch in your trunk. Works best.

Just wanted to give a heads up on the best price I have found for the regulator. Theres a seller on ebay that has front regulators for Sedan for 69.95. I just ordered mine.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WINDO...QQcmdZViewItem

Just curious, with the front door regulators, which clip is it that people are finding breaks most often - the one closer to the front or the more rear clip?

I just repaired mine and the front looks fine - the rear one was busted and the front looked fine.

I wish I found this thread earlier. My rear left window regulator broke this weekend. My kid was hanging out the window, putting weight on the partially down window, and the next day I heard the crunching sound, and window wouldn't go up(But would go down). I was late for something, and because I knew I couldn't roll my window up to lock my car, I panicked and quickly removed the paneling(But I thinks its okay), ripped the vapor barrier to get to the down cable, and after trying to unjam the loose tangled cabling in regulator, snipped the down cable so I could push the window all the way back up (So it looks like its up). I called my mechanic on Monday to schedule the repair, but it in the mean time found this site, and decided to fix it myself. I have a new regulator coming($80 shipped) but i bet it would have just been the clip since my son put his weight on the window going down and that is the weak link. Bummer that I cut the cable, as I probably could have fixed it with the zip ties. And now I have a ripped vapor barrier. But the good news is it will still cost me a lot less than my mechanic, and this is the first window regulator that I have had go out in 8 years of owning the car(1999). And I found a bunch of other DIY repairs I can do instead of paying my mechanic. for things .

So you live and learn.

I don't think the zip ties work in the rear windows from what I've read - these things will break so your son was doing you a favor getting you ready for the other three. You can then apply you zip knowledge to the fronts!

Also, buy a new vapor barrier. I wouldn't install one that is ripped. I don't think they are that expensive.