Camshaft Position Sensor (Exhaust) DIY HELP!!

I just bought the BavAuto intake camshaft sensor today, $60 with shipping. Still looking for some pics of what to remove to replace the intake sensor......anyone??

here is the thread for the Camshaft Position Sensor, intake side

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...nsor%2C+intake

I actually need to do mine as well. What codes did your car through out?

Originally Posted by raptorman5174

here is the thread for the Camshaft Position Sensor, intake side

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...nsor%2C+intake

I actually need to do mine as well. What codes did your car through out?

Thanks, I actually found a similar thread here after a lot of searching...

Initially when I got my car scanned at Autozone, it showed a P0171 (lean bank 1)...There were several possibilities as to what the cause would be, from an o2 sensor to the MAF, so I decided to get a diagnostic at the dealer ($120). The dealer said it was the intake cam sensor, and they also pulled a vacuum leak from the intake boot. However, I did a seafoam treatment about a month or so ago, which triggered an expected SES light, which went out in about and hour. So I'm thinking the intake vacuum boot code was still showing in the system from a month ago...Therefore I just ordered the cam sensor and will install very soon. The DIY looks tit.....

Let me know how it turns out, I just ordered mine, so after i install it I'll post my results.

I installed the cam position sensor last Friday, very easy to do. So far no SES light, knock on wood! Good luck with your DIY...

I Installed the CPS for the intake side today. It wasn't to bad took me about an hour or so finish. After I cruised over to Autozone to have my SES light cleared and the light hasnt turned back on so I think I'm good. Car runs smooth with no issues All is well and on to the next task whish to overhaul my entire cooling system. YIKES! Thanlks for all the help from everybody and good luck with your cars!

Just replaced my intake and exhaust CPS (114K miles), dramatic improvement. Easy DIY.

In addition to the CEL (which has been on for a while now due to a bad thermostat), last Sunday my car would immediately stall if not rev'ed or moving in gear. This was a big problem. So I first cleaned my idle control valve, and then ordered these parts after getting a code scan at Autozone.

The only hard part was fishing the intake wire back down to where it connects. Oh yeah, and the constant burnings from the hot engine block were not that nice either....


notes:
The exhaust sensor wire was not willing to come off so I went at it with a pair of pliers, that did the trick.

I did the exhaust side first and couldn't tell what size the bolt was, so I went at it with a t-(I think)35. That worked for both exhaust and intake, but it was in fact an allen socket. Don't strip the bolts out.

If you have a standard L-shaped allen wrench, that will be your best bet, you might not have to take the oil filter cap off.

I just used an adjustable spanner on the vanos solenoid, came off easily. In fact, I was a bit concerned with how loose it was!

Unclip the thermostat sensor to get a bit more room for wrenching.

I did my CSP senson this weekend. What a PITA! Very little room to work with and the sensor harness would not come off until I used wide crimping pliers. I used a 5mm hex to do the job. My recommendation is not to use an "L" shape hex wrench but get a small 3/8 drive socket wrench with a 5mm hex adapter. It will go much faster.

thanks

Just finished doing this myself, just a tip: remove the windshield washer res. so you can get to the exhaust sensor. it made it a lot easier. intake is pretty straight forward, remove intake cover, vanos, and i removed the oil filter cover so i can have more room to work with. 30 min job

About to embark on both missions. Sucks my hands are huge. What is wrong with Germans and their small engine compartments? Even there is more working room in a Tico!

I just replace both (intake and exhaust) on Saturday. The intake side took 30-45 min, the exhaust took 15 min tops. I only removed the air filter box. The only part that sucks is running that wire. This is easy. I used only OEM parts.

ok guys, today i picked up my CPS from local dealer (at bargain price of 105 + 1.79 for o-ring) and attempted to replace the bad one that gives me P0340 fault code and more importantly pisses me off. after removing the air filter and oil filter cap to get more room to use my hand, i got stuck trying remove the Solenoid (CPS is right behind it). but no matter what i did, i couldn't get it open and i left it for now because i don't want to damage that part and add to my expenses LOL
has anyone had this problem and could you share what you have done to open this part. a friend of mine suggested to go to local walmart and buy a spray that penetrates this type of jam (not WD40) your response will be most appreciated. thanks in advance guys.

Originally Posted by sshakeny

ok guys, today i picked up my CPS from local dealer (at bargain price of 105 + 1.79 for o-ring) and attempted to replace the bad one that gives me P0340 fault code and more importantly pisses me off. after removing the air filter and oil filter cap to get more room to use my hand, i got stuck trying remove the Solenoid (CPS is right behind it). but no matter what i did, i couldn't get it open and i left it for now because i don't want to damage that part and add to my expenses LOL
has anyone had this problem and could you share what you have done to open this part. a friend of mine suggested to go to local walmart and buy a spray that penetrates this type of jam (not WD40) your response will be most appreciated. thanks in advance guys.

are you talking about the vanos unit? it should loosen right up. i didnt have any problems with mine. came off with little tension. or are you talking about the bolt that holds the intake sensor? that was pretty easy too, just have enough room to stick your hand in there use a hex key should loosen right up also.

*make sure your turning it the right way. lefty loosey

For anyone who still needs it, here's a DIY on the exhaust side CPS.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=492544

I just replaced mine for the 2nd time - the 1st time I used an Aftermarket sensor and that did not last too long (less then a year) just got an OEM 1 and it's easier and more roomy if you remove the fan.

My question is - are you guys installing the new sensor dry or are you using some dielectric grease on the connector????

would a bad exhaust sensor throw a code and cause the car to idle at higher rpm? because i am having this problem. i when to a indepentant bmw shop and they want me to replace all my crank vent valve and crankcase vent pipes/hose.

Originally Posted by prican_2000

I just replaced mine for the 2nd time - the 1st time I used an Aftermarket sensor and that did not last too long (less then a year) just got an OEM 1 and it's easier and more roomy if you remove the fan.

My question is - are you guys installing the new sensor dry or are you using some dielectric grease on the connector????

I used regular motor oil. It works fine. It's used to alleviate pinching the O-ring. The removal of the sensor is simple but pesky, if you remove the two connectors in front of it, which will allow more room to work. Also, I purchased an aftermarket one from Bavarin Autosport for $54.95. See the following URL for step-by-step instructions: http://www.bokchoys.com/differential...cam_sensor.htm

Good Luck!

i have a bmw 323ci 2000 and got error code P1397 when trying to pass inspection . From the forum it looks like its possible to change. Is that true for a novice bmw fan also? the picture shown is for the intake sensor or the exhaust sensor?

thanks
Matfel