E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 1 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 02-08-2012, 09:30 AM   #1
beberle
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 181
My Ride: 2009 328 wagon
Motor Mount DIY

I changed my motor mounts out this morning. It took 2 hours from jacking the car up to bringing it down. Following these tips, you should be able to do it in under 11/2 hours w/ no fuss. Probably a 3-out-of-10 difficulty. This is on my 2000 232it automatic w/ 240,000 miles.

-HIGHLY recommend an engine support bar. Makes the job much easier than jacking under the oil pan. I bought mine from Harbor Freight for less than $75 shipped.

1. Remove the MAF sensor and intake boot to get a better shot at the top of the driver's side top motor mount bolt.
2. Remove the air intake over the fan shroud and remove the two fan shroud fasteners (one Torx screw and one plastic fitting).
3. Install the engine support bar and tighten to relieve weight from motor mounts.
4. Remove top motor mount bolts from both sides. I used a 10" wobble extension, 6" wobble, and universal. It's a 16mm nut.

Here's a shot of the old passenger-side motor mount vs new. Pretty big difference!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	motor brace 2.jpg
Views:	2641
Size:	136.5 KB
ID:	436068   Click image for larger version

Name:	motor brace.jpg
Views:	1972
Size:	117.9 KB
ID:	436069   Click image for larger version

Name:	pass mount top bolt.jpg
Views:	3911
Size:	122.1 KB
ID:	436071   Click image for larger version

Name:	new drivers side top.jpg
Views:	3859
Size:	112.6 KB
ID:	436075  

Click image for larger version

Name:	passenger mount vs new.jpg
Views:	2323
Size:	116.3 KB
ID:	436089  

Last edited by beberle; 02-08-2012 at 11:08 AM.
beberle is offline   Reply With Quote
Ads by Google

Guests, get your FREE E46Fanatics.com membership to remove this ad.
Old 02-08-2012, 09:40 AM   #2
beberle
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 181
My Ride: 2009 328 wagon
5. jack the engine up until the fan shroud is about 1/2" higher than normal.
6. get under the car and unbolt the passenger side mount bracket. There are 4 12mm bolts. MAKE SURE there isn't any weight on the motor mount from the engine. You should be able to see the engine lifted from the top.
7. remove the bottom 16mm nut from the pass side mount. A 1/2" drive and short socket easily fit w/o any extensions.
8. remove the old mount and install the new one. the heat shield tab on top of the mount aligns w/ a hole in the top of the mount. The bottom of the motor mount also has a tab that aligns w/ a hole in the frame bracket. Tighten the bottom nut, finger tight.
9. position the motor mount bracket back on the mount and tighten the 4 12mm bolts to the side of the engine. I believe it's 33ft/lbs.
10. Here's the trick that makes the driver's side a sinch. Tighten the passenger mount bottom bolt 1st. Then, from the top using extensions, tighten the passenger top nut. Tightening the nut rotates the engine just enough to give plenty of clearance on the driver's side.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	socket on pass motor mount.jpg
Views:	1225
Size:	91.3 KB
ID:	436072   Click image for larger version

Name:	wrench on bottom bolt.jpg
Views:	1285
Size:	97.9 KB
ID:	436073   Click image for larger version

Name:	unbolted motor mount bracket.jpg
Views:	1105
Size:	102.8 KB
ID:	436074  

Last edited by beberle; 02-08-2012 at 09:57 AM.
beberle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2012, 09:52 AM   #3
beberle
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 181
My Ride: 2009 328 wagon
11. Remove the driver's side bottom nut. Should be plenty of room to remove the driver's side motor mount. Mine was totally shot and came out in two pieces spilling oil everywhere.
12. Install the new mount and tighten the bottom 16mm nut.
13. slowly lower the engine w/ the engine brace to lower the engine mount bracket onto the motor mount top stud.
14. Tighten the top nut and re-install the MAF and air intakes. mount the fan shroud back and you're done!

Using the engine brace, this is an easy job! I might have enough courage to tackle the leaky oil pan gasket next... maybe.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	driver side removed.jpg
Views:	994
Size:	99.6 KB
ID:	436076   Click image for larger version

Name:	drivers side mount shot.jpg
Views:	1110
Size:	109.6 KB
ID:	436077   Click image for larger version

Name:	new drivers side mount.jpg
Views:	1030
Size:	91.8 KB
ID:	436078   Click image for larger version

Name:	drivers side top.jpg
Views:	862
Size:	74.5 KB
ID:	436079  

beberle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2012, 12:37 AM   #4
York
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Utah, USA
Posts: 204
My Ride: 01 330Ci
Thanks for the write-up. I'm getting ready to do my mounts. Is this a good time to do the oil pan gasket? I have 130K miles on it and I think this is the only gasket I haven't replaced yet. I noticed a few oil drops on the garage floor and I already did the oil filter housing gasket last summer with the oil seperator.
__________________
330Ci
York is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2012, 09:14 AM   #5
Sansho
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: CT
Posts: 1,861
My Ride: 2001 325i
Quote:
Originally Posted by York View Post
I'm getting ready to do my mounts. Is this a good time to do the oil pan gasket?
When I did my oil pan gasket, I also did the mounts. Here's what I posted then:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=844442
__________________
.
Sansho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2012, 02:23 PM   #6
raptorman5174
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central New Jersey
Posts: 807
My Ride: 330i ZHP
OP, what type of issue were you haveing with your car that led you to believe that you needed to change your motor mounts?
__________________

18 VMR CSL's
Koni FSD's
Eibach Sport Spring's
UUC Power Pullies
Sprint Booster
CCV Delete
raptorman5174 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2012, 02:49 PM   #7
beberle
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 181
My Ride: 2009 328 wagon
I was getting a vibration while accelerating. I still am somewhat, but it's gotten better. Transmission mounts and guibo look good.
beberle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2012, 03:13 PM   #8
raptorman5174
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central New Jersey
Posts: 807
My Ride: 330i ZHP
Would you feel the vibration at a specific RPM? Say right about 2000 rpm, or did you feel the vibration only during acceleration?
__________________

18 VMR CSL's
Koni FSD's
Eibach Sport Spring's
UUC Power Pullies
Sprint Booster
CCV Delete
raptorman5174 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2012, 03:37 PM   #9
Drewfus2101
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: N/A
Posts: 626
My Ride: N/A
I'm about to do this too. I just ordered the bar from HF.

When you were raising the engine, did the exhaust not bind? I'm pretty sure my headers are very tight down there, but I'm really hoping that I don't have to remove the cat-back.
Drewfus2101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2012, 05:00 PM   #10
Sansho
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: CT
Posts: 1,861
My Ride: 2001 325i
You don't raise the engine much. BMW instructions say to raise it 5mm when doing the oil sump.
__________________
.
Sansho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2012, 09:11 PM   #11
beberle
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 181
My Ride: 2009 328 wagon
Vibration only occurred while accelerating, and usually more in 1st and 2nd gear. I never noticed anything cruising, or downshifting.

I raised the engine 1/2 to 3/4". You can probably get away with a little less. I didn't notice any binding anywhere.
beberle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2012, 03:20 AM   #12
Gvega702
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Nevada
Posts: 77
My Ride: 2004 BMW 325i Sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by raptorman5174 View Post
Would you feel the vibration at a specific RPM? Say right about 2000 rpm, or did you feel the vibration only during acceleration?
I have a small vibration while accelerating, and it is pronounced at 2000 RPM's. You sound like you know something I don't
Gvega702 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2012, 08:39 AM   #13
raptorman5174
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central New Jersey
Posts: 807
My Ride: 330i ZHP
I started this thread about the vibration that i have been experiencing with the my car. I have a suspicion that it could be my motor mounts but I cant be sure.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=906941
__________________

18 VMR CSL's
Koni FSD's
Eibach Sport Spring's
UUC Power Pullies
Sprint Booster
CCV Delete
raptorman5174 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2012, 12:48 PM   #14
alpine003
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago
Posts: 276
My Ride: BMW
Bumping this to say thanks for the alternate instructions. At first I was a little skeptical as it deviated from the factory manuals.

However after doing it this way, there really is no need to take off your cabin filter and assembly as noted in the factory procedure and also loosening the fan shroud instead of removing the fan clutch makes more sense as well.

Here are some additional tips for those that have the facelifted models(mine was also an autotragic):

1. You can unclip the secondary air pump resorvoir off the bracket on the passenger side and swing it to the other side to have more working room for the top bolt on the passenger motor mount.

2. It was easier for me to remove the airbox assembly as well to get a better view of the driver's side mount.

3. No need to remove all 4 13mm bolts on the passenger motor mount bracket. If you remove 3 and just loosen the 4th one, that will allow you to move the bracket up and down to clear the motor mount top bolt. This will allow you align the bracket and insert the bolts more easily upon assembly.

4. Lube up the threaded engine support rod and washer that sits on the bar. This will make adjustments easier.

5. If you can't get the passenger's side top motor mount back on or you can't clear the driver's side bracket to get the old motor mount off, try turning the engine support brace handle a couple times, often times this will shift the engine slightly to the left or right allowing more clearance.

6. Taking the front wheels off will allow more elbow room to remove the bottom bolts on the engine mounts

7. If your OCD about your car's appearance, you might wanna put some masking tape where the feet of the engine brace comes in contact with the fender to prevent any scraping or scratches.

8. Get the M3 version mounts if you don't care about Caddilac comfort but still want a civil and refined "BMW" ride. Transitions and fast switchbacks seem more solid than before(don't know if it's new mounts, m3 mounts, or combination of both).

9. If you have an earlier car and it came with the oil pan access panel, remove it as you can snake your arm in there to gain more access to the mounts.
__________________
alpine003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2012, 12:57 PM   #15
alpine003
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago
Posts: 276
My Ride: BMW
Forgot, this tool is onsale now as well:

The engine support bar is now on sale for $59.99: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

Picked this up last weekend and also used the 20% off coupon so it knocked it down even further.
__________________
alpine003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2012, 05:10 AM   #16
quango2k
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Portsmouth UK
Posts: 11
My Ride: 1999 E46 328i, 120k
quick question for you all.. on my 328 when accelerating hard from 1st, when i push the clutch in to change to 2nd the gearstick wobbles like the engine is wobbling after dumping the clutch in..only does it at high revs.

would this be my engine mounts shot? i replaced the Gb mounts and guibo and no change.
quango2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2012, 01:29 PM   #17
BartenderPlease
OEM ///Member
 
BartenderPlease's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: FL
Posts: 9,334
My Ride: 328i Sport
Old thread, but I got some great information. I'm about to do mine. Thanks for posting all of this and taking the pics.

About your vibrations that are pronounced under heavy loads of torque being put to the ground (first and second gear being most obvious as they are lower). STOP hitting the car hard now, please. Otherwise you will further damage your subframe. Unless you have searched for subframe damage underneath the car and in the trunk, do it now. First check under the car, although there may be damage you can't see, hence the trunk section you will search next. Refer to number 8 of these directions. This is where you may have cracking going on.

These were my symptoms of two failing subframes.
__________________
New Genuine Parts FS
328i DISA
E46 CCV

image
AERA Hi-Perf Engine Builder
| BBS | FK | Rogue Eng | K&N | Exhaust | 330i Brakes |
| b30 manifold | ported head | FX-R/Orion V4 | LEDs |
| Alcantara | Khoalty Knob | JL Audio |



Last edited by BartenderPlease; 11-08-2012 at 01:29 PM.
BartenderPlease is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2012, 01:40 PM   #18
jimmyz_garage
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Allen, TX
Posts: 87
My Ride: 323i Sport Wagon
I replaced my motor mounts this past weekend. Got the engine support at Harbor Freight for 59 bucks. Took me 1.5 hours to complete thanks to this writeup (even though I missed the part about tightening the exhaust side mount down to rotate the intake side up enough to put insert the mount - there was probably at least a 1 inch difference in the height of the old mount vs the new mount - I lifted the engine up about 6 inches to clear the intake side.) The only thing I broke was that weak nipple on the intake boot.

The car feels a lot more solid...now to tackle the rear diff mounts and a new steering rack...

btw, my e46 touring just rolled over 200k.
__________________
jimmyz_garage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2013, 09:10 AM   #19
Feldheld
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Germany
Posts: 5
My Ride: E46 Touring 320d
wrong thread

Last edited by Feldheld; 08-22-2013 at 09:12 AM.
Feldheld is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2014, 07:20 PM   #20
Mariner05
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: MN
Posts: 8
My Ride: 2005 325xi
XI Specific Motor Mount - '05 325XI, MT

Thanks beberle ! Excellent Post!

(I'm posting to this older thread for easier searching - adding XI specific info)

I already had HF engine support bar, and I used it much as you suggested. The car was already jacked up to do CCV/CVV, lower intake boot, TB & AIC valve cleaning. I used the bar and hanger to elevate the engine - threads and top of hanger washer well greased, and about 6 complete turns after the initial compression of the support bar rubber. At 93K my right side (passenger) engine mount was dead - and the top mounting stud came out with the nut. Left side mount rubber had hardened, but it was not as compressed as some pictures I've seen.

Comments / added details for xi:

Skip Step 10, the tip on tightening the passenger side mount, While this will rotate the engine, on my car I think this would run high risk of ruining the new passenger (right) side mount. On rear drive cars I can't say.

1) Fasten support hook as illustrated by OP from front to avoid breaking CVV pipe to VC - I saw someone state that BMW says raise engine 5mm, but I went about 1 inch, watch for any interference;
2) Loosening the SAP from its mount avoids a possible problem;
3) I have a Manual, but for Auto trans consider removing engine fan / clutch; 4) For XI you will need to partly drop the sub frame. Loosen front sub frame bolts (2 turns or less is fine) and probably remove rear (shorter) sub frame bolts. These two pairs of bolts are recommended single use;
5) If XI suspension is fully assembled in good condition you will need to pry the rear of the sub frame down. I used a 1 3/8 inch flat bar to keep the left (driver) side corner of the sub frame dropped while I removed and replaced both mounts.
6) After installing mounts, lower engine onto them to torque nuts;
7) Lower the car to load suspension and sub frame, torque sub frame bolts to recommended spec (mine were 81 lb-ft by Bentley).

This turned out to be both easier and harder than I expected. It's very satisfying - the cleaned TB / AIC valve, new mounts, and recent struts/shocks have me feeling like I'm driving a new car. And my CVV system is probably good for another 100K.

Hope this helps other xi owners.

Mariner05
Mariner05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use