E46 Fanatics Forum banner
421 - 440 of 692 Posts
I'm heading out to get the same battery now but with a $20 off coupon.

I'll post how much it cost tonight but since it's raining I won't be installing today.
You have to ask for that particular one, cause when they search on the computer it doesn't show up. They do have it on the self though. It also has a vent tube hole on both sides.
 
Johnson Control makes the Duralast(Autozone) and the DieHard(Sears),and most Everstart (Walmart) batteries. They also own Bosch,Varta(OE BMW),and others.There are very few actual battery manufacturers,and they rebadge their products for many different customers.

Good information!

Where does Exide fit in? The battery I have now sports both, an Exide name and BMW logo.
 
Exide makes Exide

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exide

Dudes went Chapter 11 in 2013!

Hmmm...sucks for them! Lol! Seriously though, thanks for the information...who would've known?

Sorry to have led this thread off topic a bit. I'll gracefully back out now but I'll continue to watch the thread. Sooner or later I'll have to replace my OE battery and more information is knowledge!
 
I just picked the batteries off the shelf to compare

H8-DLG AKA 49R
Just for comparison, The NAPA Legend Premium AGM Group 49 battery has a higher 180 minute reserve, and the same 900 CCA for just $40 more. AGM is a better technology and is finally price competitive with flooded lead-acid. AGM is a sealed battery: no need to worry about vent holes, and never a need to refill cells with distilled water.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Battery-Legend-Premium-AGM/_/R-NBD9849_0427821435
 
I got it too with the $20 coupon I linked in my earlier post. It's raining here so I'll have to install it later in the week.
Did you have to remove the spacer block or adjust the hold down bracket?
1. Loosen negative terminals from the top with 10mm socket. remove
2. Loosen positive terminal from top with 10mm socket and remove.
3. Loosen and remove both 1/2" or 13mm bolts from hold down arm.

I used duct tape to hold terminals out of the way.
4. Remove the vent tube, and pull battery out.

Installation is the reverse.
put the positive on first and tighten... then negative.
Also, reuse your positive cable red plastic cover. It pops right in place like the old one.
I also bought those green and red pads plus the electric squeeze grease for the terminals.
Make sure you clean your connections when the battery is out.


Btw... to answer your question Stryfe76, I didn't have to do a thing.
It went right in. Remove the old one, and slide in the new battery.
You can loosen that top screw a bit, and snug it back down if you want, but it was identical in my case.
 
1. Loosen negative terminals from the top with 10mm socket. remove
2. Loosen positive terminal from top with 10mm socket and remove.
3. Loosen and remove both 1/2" or 13mm bolts from hold down arm.

I used duct tape to hold terminals out of the way.
4. Remove the vent tube, and pull battery out.

Installation is the reverse.
put the positive on first and tighten... then negative.
Also, reuse your positive cable red plastic cover. It pops right in place like the old one.
I also bought those green and red pads plus the electric squeeze grease for the terminals.
Make sure you clean your connections when the battery is out.


Btw... to answer your question Stryfe76, I didn't have to do a thing.
It went right in. Remove the old one, and slide in the new battery.
You can loosen that top screw a bit, and snug it back down if you want, but it was identical in my case.
Thanks Modman!
 
I also bought those green and red pads plus the electric squeeze grease for the terminals.
Make sure you clean your connections when the battery is out.
Excellent removal procedure - by disconnecting the negative terminal first, any slips of the wrench on the positive terminal won't short against the negative through the car body/chassis.

An interesting story [warning?] on electric grease on high current connections - back in SunRayce 95 (solar powered car race), heard a story from the 93 race - one team got to the race, then decided the night before to use electric grease on all 144 battery connections, for the first time. The next morning their car caught on fire from the battery terminals just a few miles past the start line. It was quite a mess, apparently.

It seems less costly in the long run to just get the special wire brush for battery terminals, clean the post and inside the clamp connector, and remove all grease, fingerprints, etc.
 
An interesting story [warning?] on electric grease on high current connections - back in SunRayce 95 (solar powered car race), heard a story from the 93 race - one team got to the race, then decided the night before to use electric grease on all 144 battery connections, for the first time. The next morning their car caught on fire from the battery terminals just a few miles past the start line. It was quite a mess, apparently.

So Auto Zone will be getting sued by everyone since they recommended it to me and probably everyone that buys a battery from them.
Btw.... no fires yet, I'll keep u posted.
Lol
 
Exide makes a lot of batteries worldwide.In the US,the most recognizable is NAPA brand and some WalMart(Everstart).Another battery that Johnson Control makes(or owns) is Optima,which is huge in motorsports.We have one in our Chump racer as they are the series sponsor! If you are really bored,here is a link to batteries world wide,and the parent companies.
http://www.pssurvival.com/PS/Batteries/Types/Bat_Brand_2004.pdf

Having been in the parts supply business for years,the di-electic grease and felt pads are extra items which the salesperson gets credit for adding them to the purchase.I'm not saying they are a bad thing,but you will always be pushed to buy them.
 
So Auto Zone will be getting sued by everyone since they recommended it to me and probably everyone that buys a battery from them.
Btw.... no fires yet, I'll keep u posted.
Lol
Sued? They'll just claim you used it improperly. :)

Dielectric grease is great for keeping out moisture, which the trunk of an E46 should not have a problem with. However, it also increases resistance so it can impede the flow of current in and out of the battery.

I've only seen salesmen push the use of it, never battery experts.

"I've got this wonderful new snake oil for you..." ;)

From the web: "Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone-based grease that's designed to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. It also disrupts the flow of electrical current, which makes it good for lubricating and sealing the rubber parts of electrical connectors. It's commonly used in automotive spark plug wires, recreational and utility vehicles, and electrical systems in aircraft."
 
Sued? They'll just claim you used it improperly. :)

Dielectric grease is great for keeping out moisture, which the trunk of an E46 should not have a problem with. However, it also increases resistance so it can impede the flow of current in and out of the battery.

I've only seen salesmen push the use of it, never battery experts.

"I've got this wonderful new snake oil for you..." ;)

From the web: "Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone-based grease that's designed to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. It also disrupts the flow of electrical current, which makes it good for lubricating and sealing the rubber parts of electrical connectors. It's commonly used in automotive spark plug wires, recreational and utility vehicles, and electrical systems in aircraft."
So if it's not good for electric, why do they make/use it?
On spark plugs, rotor caps, etc.?
 
421 - 440 of 692 Posts