Oil on the exhaust is almost always a valve cover leak, belts are hard to judge aside from obvious damage. I've got 40K and 6 years on mine.

 

When you say Valve Cover, do you mean the VCG or the VC itself?
I just checked and the price of a VC is $340-$450, depending on the brand.

 

Thanks for the confirmation.

I'm thinking that I may have to bite the bullet and do all these since I'm going to be pulling out many layers.

My car is a 15 year old 330i but 21K miles and here's my bite-the-bullet replacement list:

1. Valve Cover Gasket (part is here)
2. Valve Cover
3. Spark plug grommets (all 6 of them)
4. bolt grommets on the valve cover
5. all the main belts
6. CCV system (I already have the new parts)

Anything other usual suspects that I should go ahead and replace if I'm already deep in there?

 

Is that belt cracked?

 

Those belts are done - replace ASAP.
Valve cover gasket is regular maintenance. Mine goes bad and starts leaking onto the exhaust every 60k miles or so.
As you said, the valve cover itself is expensive and should not need to be replaced unless it has cracks in it; I replaced mine at 228k miles due to tiny cracks I could only see while doing a smoke test.
CCV (or CVV) is pretty difficult to replace, especially for a newbie. It does not need to be done at the same time as this other stuff, so don't bother unless it is clogged or cracked. If you do it, make sure to get the cold weather one with extra insulation on it. This will keep your oil warmer so it doesn't clog up the system again.

 

Thanks for the belt worn-out confirmation, guys.

OK, I may hold off for the CCV system. Yes, I did get the winter option.

 

If you do the CCV remove the intake manifold. Much easier.

 

Yes, did see from the 50's Kid vi in YouTube and he recommended this as well. Thanks for the reminder.

 

Removing the intake isn’t necessary. Yes, you’ll have to remove some stuff if you don’t remove the intake. The only hard part when installing the CCV without removing the intake is connecting the hose from the intake to the upper part of the CCV body. Unlike all of the other connections which are “click together” connections, this is a screw connection. The secret is to rotate the CCV body so that the bottom is facing the engine and forcing the hose towards the CCV body. Then rotate the CCV body towards the ground.

 

Thanks for the tips. Appreciate it.

 

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Engine/Crankcase-Vent-Systems-Valves-and-Hoses/

• What? You are supposed to replace CCV every couple of years? Seriously?
• And, CCV needs to be kept up even more for the newer Turbo engines?

 

Going to start on these 2 jobs later today. Wish me luck.

1. Valve Cover gasket replacement
2. AC + Serpentine Belts replacements
3. CCV system (if I still have oomph to go)

 

If doing belts, it's a good time to replace the pulleys too.

 

My car has only 22K miles. Do you think replacing pulleys is necessary?
The belts need to be changed due to age and small cracks.

 

When you replace the belts, test the pulleys:
1. If you wiggle them, do they rock appreciably?
2. When you spin them do the spin freely like a skateboard wheel or slow quickly? If the spin freely, replace them
3. Do they make noise

If they pass, leave them

 

Belts Replaced

Belts replaced. Took about 2.5 hours. This is my 1st time doing this. No snafu and quite straightforward.
One thing which wasn't mentioned in any YouTube or DIY instructions is that the Torx size for the 2 tensioners are different: the large one is T50 and the smaller one is, I think, T45.
Getting the fan back was a little fight as you need to get one wrench to hold the main shaft from rotating while you screw the fan back in counter-clockwise.

Test-drove the car and it ran normal. Turned AC on to check if the outer belt run fine under load. All is good.

Off to do the Valve Cover Gasket ...

 

NEED HELP: How to remove electrical harness?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWgMrJcww_Y&t=1112s
At 7min in the vid (above), he struggled to get this plastic long harness off but did not really explain how to disengage this thing. It's so plastic and I know if I do it the wrong way, it will break.

Any idea how to remove it? See attached photo to identify part.

 

Red dust accusation on solenoid

Can someone tell me what's the dusty red accumulation around the solenoids which I popped out? Each one was original sitting in the cylinder above the spark plugs.

This is the same red earth dust that were found on the inner side of the alloy wheels. May be the original owner drove in red earth areas in Florida.

Could external dust elements go into the solenoid cylinders?

 

Can someone tell me what's the dusty red accumulation around the solenoids which I popped out? Each one was original sitting in the cylinder above the spark plugs.

This is the same red earth dust that were found on the inner side of the alloy wheels. May be the original owner drove in red earth areas in Florida.

Could external dust elements go into the solenoid cylinders?

Are you sure it's not rust? Those are the coils and the harness should be held in metal clips, the O2 sensor wires are there too. You have a different valve cover/ harness than the 50's kid.

 

I know you're not going to like hearing this but the cold weather option on the CCV does more harm than good. If the oil/water mix in it freezes it takes longer to thaw out. There is a trick I use to get the fan back on. Wrap a piece of twine, heavy string or a shoelace around the nut on the fan. Then slide the fan and shroud into place, hold the fan so the threads line up with water pump. Pull the cord to turn the nut until the threads catch then let go of the fan and pull the cord to spin the fan on.

 

Here's a pic with it ready to go on.

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I'll give it another try to figure out how to remove the wiring harness.
I looked at BavAuto, and he just popped 2 clips and it came off. This is seen at 12:40min mark in the vid.
It looked so easy for him.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-TLgNCmTlY

 

Any suggestions on techniques to remove the wiring harness would be appreciated.
(See post #21 and #26)

 

This is what the cover looks like with the harness off. You can see the tabs that hold the plastic cover in place. Just pry them back one at a time when lifting it.

You can see the clips for the O2 sensors. IDK if there are supposed to be 2 or 3.

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Very clear instructions and advice.
THANK YOU, for the great help.
Really appreciate this.

 

The case that the harness is in should be flexible enough to be able to bend and get out of that first tab, then you should be able to twist it out of the second one. should be simple after that. Sometimes seeing it apart helps determine how the fasteners work.

 

Thanks to jmo69, I got the wiring harness off but I still broke one of the plastic clips. Oh well.

Anyway, looks like there is some mayo on the corner where the CCV pipe is connected to and the engine internal components looked brand new to my eyes.

Some parts of the VCG is pliable but other parts are hard. Glad I changed it.
The gaskets around the cylinder shaft are definitely hard as rock.

 

You don't know what 'mayo' can look like. This was in the middle of a mid west winter after short trips. The mechanicals didn't look bad.

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Wow, impressive Mayo !

 

Completed the VCG replacement.
Test-drove it today for around 5 miles.

The STFT/LTFT did not improve. Perhaps, it was the lousy sealant I used. I have since ordered this one and will apply when it arrives.

 

I use the black RTV, mainly on the half moons and the ends.

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I'm a bit late - would have suggested the often overseen Vanos gasket. Between the vanos and the head. I've had leaks from there in the past creeping back to exhaust. And messing everything below it. Also got 330ci at nearly 220k miles now.

 

VANOS gaskets = perhaps when I get in there to reseal the VCG

Thanks for suggesting.